We’re delighted to announce the first in a new series of Purdey House tweeds, inspired by Tom Purdey. In last week’s article we introduced you to this legendary character in Purdey history (read more about him, here), and when it came to which Purdey family member should inspire our first House tweed, the decision presented itself easily.
“Among the most magnetic characters in Purdey history, and one that many of the team would still love to share a drink with, Tom Purdey was a natural choice. With a gregarious personality, he was a discerning man of great taste and considered a leading tweed aesthete of his time. His classic and refined personal style had the versatility to take him from days outdoors in the Highlands to infamous parties across the pond; Tom mixed in some very interesting circles. It’s this balance of sophistication and high spirits that we wanted to capture in the creation of the new House tweed.” – Giles Deacon, Purdey Creative Director
Developed bespoke with our partner mill in Hawick, Scotland, the legacy of Estate tweeds also informs the story of our new House tweed. Born in the Scottish countryside in the 18th century, tweed is completely intrinsic to its surroundings, one of the most naturally hard-working, all weather fabrics with a history that speaks as much to British farm workers as it does to game wardens and Royals alike.
The development of synthetic clothing dyes in the 19th century meant that various estates began to create their own tweeds that were both distinct and stylish, and could also blend into the landscape. Each estate’s tweed had subtle defining characteristics in colour, pattern and weave – for example, the granite pastures of Cawdor called for a black-and-white pattern; whereas the Glen Dye and Fasque Estates required a much richer, Pine-tree green.
At the same time, there was always the intent that that tweed should be marketable to the urban set. Victorian designers wanted to create clothing for the metropolitan well-heeled that would be deemed fashionable, and this required bringing the weight down for tweeds that were just a comfortable outside the countryside setting too.
Tom Purdey himself favoured a dogtooth pattern, overlaid with a lighter windowpane check, which is reflected in the design of the new tweed. The base draws on the muted tones of the Scottish landscape, soft greens, heathers and browns; while the blue overcheck links to the blues that thread throughout Tom’s life, from his school colours at Eton to his regimental tartan.
The cloth combines fine woollen spun lambswool and merino wool in 21 individually coloured yarns, used in 16 separate high-twist combinations. Every metre is woven on a four-harness classic twill construction, before being inspected and corrected by hand to ensure highest possible quality. The fabric is then finished locally and washed using the soft peaty waters of the Scottish Borders.
“Beautifully refined and as unique as the man himself, the Tom Purdey tweed would be as well suited to him as it is to those who enjoy wearing tweed today. We look forward to seeing how our clients style and make it their own, continuing the Purdey legacy for generations to come.” – Giles Deacon, Purdey Creative Director
Tom Purdey tweed is now available in our Audley House boutique, and will be online here from 7th July. The full collection includes a Men’s and Women’s jacket, vest, breeks, tie and hat; plus a cashmere-mix version for soft accessories including a blanket, cushion and hot water bottle.